Book sparks unprecedented interest in Vin de Constance

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Saturday, January 26, 2013
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Hull Daily Mail

S ince being introduced in 1986, Klein Constantia's Vin de Constance, a luscious and sweet dessert wine from South Africa, has consistently appeared in lists of the world's top ten wines.

Its history, however, can be traced back more than 300 years, for the wine is made in the same style as the legendary Constantia, enjoyed by the great and good (and not so good) of history, including kings and prime ministers as well as Napoleon, Frederick the Great and Bismarck.

In Edwin Drood, Charles Dickens tells of "the support embodied in a glass of Constantia and a homemade biscuit".

Towards the end of the 19th century, vine disease caused devastation and bankruptcy for the producers and that was it until the more recent revival. And now, a mention in EL James's novel Fifty Shades Darker has sparked unprecedented interest in the wine all over again.

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The 2004 vintage makes an appearance in the second of the Fifty Shades erotic trilogy (not that I've read it, I hasten to add) at a masked ball attended by the novel's protagonists, Christian Grey and Anastasia Steele.

Vin de Constance 2004 is enjoyed with the third course at the charity event, paired with sugared-crusted walnut chiffon candied figs, sabayon sauce and maple ice cream.

According to news reports, restaurants in America have begun staging Fifty Shades evenings with replica menus. The sweet wine's brief cameo has also led to daily requests to try the 2004 vintage at the 82-hectare estate in the Constantia Valley, ten miles inland from Cape Town.

The wine is also selling well in the UK.

"We're asked every day by people coming into our tasting room about the wine appearing in Fifty Shades Darker," managing director Hans Astrom says.

"We were surprised to discover that Vin de Constance was featured in the book but, as a result, many new people are discovering one of the great wines of the world."

The Constantia valley is the oldest vineyard region in the Cape with vines first planted as far back as 1685.

Napoleon is said to have drunk a bottle of Vin de Constance a day while in exile on the island of St Helena, and every day in the week leading up to his death.

French poet Baudelaire claimed only the lips of his lover surpassed the "heavenly sweetness" of South Africa's "honey- coloured" Constantia wine.

And in 1811, the golden elixir was pres- cribed for Jane Austen's heroine Marianne Dashwood in Sense And Sensibility for its "healing powers on a disappointed heart".

Locally, the Beverley branch of Majestic currently have Vin de Constance in stock at £35 a bottle. Some Waitrose stores also stock it; if not it can be ordered online for £28.99.

Where: Waitrose

When: Now, until February 12

Why: An ever-popular choice at a decent price, this deliciously ripe and full-bodied red from the Rhone Valley is smooth in texture with deep black cherry and plum flavours.

£13.99 (was £18.99)

Where: Waitrose

When: Now, until February 12

Why: This classic Médoc has a magnificent ruby red colour with aromas of blackcurrant and berry fruit. On the palate, it is full-bodied, rich and intense with deep fruit flavours and a long, ample finish.

£6.98 (was £10.49)

Where: Tesco

When: Now, until February 19

Why: Some great Pinot from New Zealand. The sweetness of the fruit is balanced by firm tannins.

This is a red you can enjoy with a risotto or pasta dish.

£6 (was £9.29)

Where: Tesco

When: Now, until February 19

Why: New Zealand's other great grape variety. Bold, ripe aromas of fresh cut grass and passion fruit. A dry, fresh, fruit-driven wine with intense flavours.

£6 (was £9.29)

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