Drink less, drink better!

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Monday, February 08, 2010
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This is HullandEastRiding

​Wine columnist Phil Parrish is determined to stick to his New Year’s resolution of drinking less, but better, wine. We can all follow suit, he recommends, by establishing our own wine “cellar”. Here’s how . . .

In previous years, one of my pointless New Year’s resolutions was to go on the wagon for the whole of January – though I rarely got further than the day after my New Year hangover had subsided. It was a weird thing to do; what did I gain, a month of feeling virtuous? No, just a build up of sample bottles I would have to taste at some point anyway.

So this year it’s different; my resolution is to “drink less, drink better”.

My reasoning behind this is multifold. The first is rather obvious. Why give up something that gives you immense pleasure? You might raise the odd eyebrow at this, but I don’t drink that much anyway; above the Government recommended limits I suspect, but I don’t drink every day by any means, and I never finish a bottle just because it’s open.

Anyway, “less is more” as they say. I had half thought that I might be able to save money by drinking less, drinking better. Unfortunately, I’m going to have to spend more, though the payback is tasting wine as it should be. 

I get the feeling that a certain amount of  boredom has set in over wine in the past couple of years and it’s hardly surprising given all the bland, industrialised offerings we see littering the supermarket shelves.  I’m bored by simply tasting them and I certainly wouldn’t get any pleasure from drinking them, so what do we do?

The simple answer is to start a wine cellar.

This might sound like pretentious twaddle, but a cellar doesn’t have to be a grand affair. And it doesn’t have to be underground!

Anybody must be able to find a space that would accommodate four of five cases, and as long as the space is dark, vibration free and a stable temperature, then it’s a “cellar”. I know someone who has a stash of wine in his garage that is covered by old rugs, carpet off-cuts and black plastic – a real Bob Flowerdew affair.

Not very pretty, but highly effective and safe; what thief is going to scrat under that lot?

To start your collection/cellar, find a wine or style you enjoy drinking – it doesn’t have to be expensive (the best bargains are in the £10-£15 a bottle price range), so buy a few extra bottles, a full case or more if you’re flush, and then stick them away and forget about them.

Don’t make your cellar too accessible, or you’ll end up raiding it too often, but every six months or so pull a bottle and see how the taste alters. You will be amazed at the differing nuances and changes that occur, though much less so with screw capped bottles.

Repeat this over a number of different wines and styles and you will be smugly surprised as to how quickly you build up stock.

After a few years collecting, the real joy is digging through the odds and sods and rediscovering some gems. A close and dear friend did this just before Christmas and invited us round to taste the goodies. Claret from 1978, Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 2nd growth St Julien, 1966 Domaine de Chevalier Graves (simply stunning), 1978 Chatauneuf Du Pape Domaine Beaucastel, 1976 Chateau d'Yquem  and 1966 Taylors Vintage Port.

This was an exceptional cache to dig out and any one of these bottles on its own would have had me dancing for joy, but all together? Simply an unrepeatable and unforgettable occasion.

To go out and buy any one of these wines you would be looking at having to pay in excess of £100 each, considerably more with a couple of them, but my pal swears he bought them “cheap” years and years ago – I sort of believe him.

Before Clarets (Red Bordeaux) became an investment, there was an old trick employed by the well-heeled that effectively enabled them to drink for free. They used to buy, say, 10 cases of their favourite claret every vintage as it was released. Then, when ready to drink, they would use a couple of cases and sell the rest at a profit as the value of the wine had increased substantially over the years. A cute trick, which still works – but it’s much more difficult to spot the winners these days and you would probably have to lay out around £50k to come out on top.

That idea is way out of my league, but what would I buy for a starter cellar? Well now is a good time to start looking with all the sales being on. You can rarely go wrong with quality Rhone wine, Bordeaux or Burgundy, but if you go for a name that’s already established you will pay a premium, so my advice is to buy big names if you have to from lesser years and unknowns from the best years.

Buy a trusted reference book – Hugh Johnson’s pocket wine book is unsurpassed and if you are canny the 2009 version can be bought from the remainder shops for £2.

It’s a misconception that Australian wines won’t improve with keeping – they do, and very well, but not the three for a tenner versions. I would also try tucking away top-end Chilean red – and you’d be hard-pressed to spend much over £15 a bottle to buy the absolute best.

Majestic have the 2008 Chilean Montes Reserve Merlot on offer at £5.99 (down from £7.99) that’s a steal. 

Southern France is awash with bargain, top quality stuff, as is lesser known Spain. Italy likewise, but is a minefield to negotiate without some prior knowledge.  Chablis from a good grower keeps and improves well, as does non-vintage Champagne, which is especially good news at the moment with all the Champagne deals flying around.

Alsace is under priced, as is Riesling, especially from Germany and New Zealand.

Berry Bros & Rudd, my favourite online retailers (www.bbr.com/sale) have their traditional annual clear-out going on at the moment and I was severely tempted by a case of the Californian 2006 Ridge Lyton Springs, down from £30.10 a bottle to a bargain £17.50 (look it up in your newly-acquired reference book). This is delicious now (the best wines nearly always taste superb from day one), but would be a real keeper and if I was keeping an eye on potential wine investments this would be up there.

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