Restaurant review: Lucca, Princes Avenue, Hull, a worthy successor to Pier Luigi
IT is hard to believe now but not so long ago finding a good restaurant on Princes Avenue was a tough job.
When I arrived on the shores of Hull 12 years ago there was some grim Mexican, a lot of takeaways and, of course, Pier Luigi.
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Lucca: The interior is unrecognisable from the Pier Luigi days.
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Lucca: Another view of the interior.
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Lucca's antipasto al Italiana starter.
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Pollo e' Parma
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A stylish lounge area is the perfect place for cocktails
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The smart exterior puts Lucca on a par with the more stylish Princes Avenue bars.
Like many long-lasting eateries, Pier Luigi’s fortunes wavered over the years – personally I ate both well and extremely poorly there.
By the time it closed, however, there can be no doubt it had been overtaken by the newer, slicker restaurants that had opened on a street that had, at first surprisingly, become one of the night-time destinations of the city.
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Lucca, the new Italian that has opened in its place, therefore has both a heritage to live up to - and a venue with a mixed reputation to overcome.
The revamp has made the place almost unrecognisable. Where once was wood and hand-painted murals is now slick glass and fancy design. It has to be said it is a vast improvement.
Upstairs is a champagne bar and function room, but after a quick visit to the cocktail bar – which has been cleverly delineated from the restaurant by a thick glass door – we head to the restaurant.
The menu is large enough but not overwhelming, with plenty to choose from in the pasta, pizza and risotto sections.
Dishes include fresh crabmeat tortellini, slightly more innovative than many Italian restaurants, but it is to the other mains we head, eager to test the kitchen’s finesse.
I opt for the gamberonni picante (£7.45) – or spicy prawns – which come with a cucumber, red onion and sweet pepper salad for a starter, while my dining partner chooses the seared scallops with Parma ham, asparagus and madeira sauce (£8.25).
We are both impressed with our choices – the Madeira sauce is beautifully reduced, while the prawns are tasty but light – and look forward to the main attraction.
After much deliberation, I choose the monkfish, which comes wrapped in Parma ham and is served with wilted spinach with potato and anchovy cream (£16.95). I also order a side salad and although there is far too much food to finish, I relish every mouthful.
My indecisive dining partner asks for guidance from the waiter, who recommends the herb-crusted rack of lamb (£17.45), which comes with baby new potatoes, confit shallots, glazed carrots, roasted red onion and redcurrant jelly sauce.
It is polished off with much lip-smacking pleasure.
A dessert each – pear tart for me, cheesecake for my partner – and a couple of coffees finish off a meal that has been accompanied by great service.
Unwilling to end the night, we head once more into the bar for yet more cocktails as, it would appear, do a number of other tables.
The bill when it comes is a pleasant surprise at just under £110.
Pleasantly full, and suitable refreshed from our cocktails, we head off into the night – memories of Pier Luigi all but erased.
Lucca Bar and Kitchen, 84 Princes Avenue, Hull. Call: 01482 470088.
Comments
by yorstons
Monday, January 28 2013, 5:45PM
“My wife and i went there on Saturday night and had an excellent meal. The staff were freindly and helpfull and we had quiet a laught with our waiter trying to get our italian prenunciation right. We though it was really good value for money,£62.00 for two courses, wine and coffee,definatly going back there.”
by PaulRusling
Monday, September 17 2012, 2:18PM
“Ive eaten in poor, excellent and simply superb restaurants all over the world for the last 40 odd years, and still manage to eat out regularly. For some years in the 80s Chaplins was extremely popular with Cuddly Ken out front & his then wife Tina working the tables. His successor Steve also ran a great operation, but it was authentic Mexican cuisine and style. Bbt eventually standards slipped, which may have been when reviewer Lucy dipped her toe in the water.
Reviews are written for a variety of reasons, and not all are objective. if you look at some 'reviews' its clear the writer feels they have to be hyper-critical and find something to whine at, and some others simply have an axe to grind and go in for a hatchet job, often quite unfairly. You can usually spot those:- anonymous, first time ever posting, etc. Discerning diners will take a balanced view, not believe all they read, pay more heed to 'word of mouth' from someone they trust and most of all, try it and make up their own minds.
there are some very poor restaurants in our city, a few excellent ones but also a lot of really good ones, that don't chase awards all the time, don't have support from local journalists, and do employ local people. Those are the ones that deserve your consideration.”
by Tiger_Steve
Thursday, August 16 2012, 10:48PM
“I also hail from the Chaplins era and have fond memories of good food and warm hospitality, certainly not a grim Mexican in sight!
I was planning to go to Lucca's for a meal until I read the mixed reviews and particularly the pretentious review from lucylyon.
In the current economic climate I don't believe many diners would be happy to pay £110 for an Italian meal for 2, unless of course it's a freebie for journalistic services rendered.
Tiger Steve”
by westhull05
Monday, July 09 2012, 12:51PM
“we went this weekend and the food was gorgeous - the sunday lunch menu is amazing value for what you get.
you would not even know it was the same place as PierLuigi. Going to go back without the kids to try the cocktail menu!!!!”
by Anon_Geoff
Monday, July 09 2012, 8:04AM
“Splodge...
Seriously??
At a time of such austerity should they also get rid of the sports section? What about the forums? Classifieds?
At a time of such austerity is it not useful to know which restaurants are worth the money?
At a time of austerity should the local paper be turned into a political campaign pamphlet?
Ray's Place is nice for what it does, but is not comparable as a restaurant. Went to Lucca's last week. Friendly and quick service, the care that went into the little things on the plate made all the difference.”
by GCtheDJ
Friday, July 06 2012, 1:44PM
“I used to be a regular in Chaplins circa 1986 when it was owned by a chap called Ken Cutsforth. It was absolutely brilliant back in those days. I cannot comment too much after it changed hands, think I went in once and it was still okay.”
by plumduff
Wednesday, July 04 2012, 9:43AM
“I ate there last week and it was possibly one of the worst meals I have had. Dreadful service, terrible atmosphere and mediocre food. I dont think the other restaurants on Princes Avenue need to be in the least worried about this "competitor".
Try Farthings Steak Emporium in Beverley for a great dining experience”
by LucyLyon
Tuesday, July 03 2012, 8:44PM
“Splodge,
I don't know if I missed out on Chaplains heyday but I ate there once, with friends who had come to visit me in my new home, and it was truly the worst food I have ever eaten. I was totally embarrassed but it was the only place we could find at the time.
This is not a free advert, or even a news story, but a review of a dining experience - we run reviews of businesses, in particular eating establishments, all the time. It is clearly marked as a review - which is only ever a personal opinion. We are also more than happy to hear from patrons who have also eaten there. In fact we welcome them so that people can form a more informed decision on whether it sounds like somewhere they want to visit.
Flavelski had a different experience - and I am pleased he added his thoughts to the review.”
by splodge76
Tuesday, July 03 2012, 2:56PM
“Why should a newspaper give free adverts to business at a time of such austerity? Where are the articles campaigning for the government to promote growth and send jobs our way?
The article is also incorrect - there have always been restaurants on Princes Ave. Ray's place has been there absolute years and has a great reputation. The Thai restaurant has been there for ages and Chaplains (the ghastly mexican) was full to capacity with queueing patrons almost every single night and people still talk to this day about the gorgeous food. So trying to do circumvent your own rules on free adverts by turning it into a none news story doesn't really work - especially with the below comment that contradicts your article.”
by Flavelski
Monday, July 02 2012, 3:43PM
“Some of my friends went on Saturday, sat down at 8:30 and didn't receive their meals until well after 10pm. There was an excuse about the chef having to go to hospital but that did not really wash with my friends. They said everyone received very slow service, although they were given free drinks to make up for it. Hopefully just teeething problems and not a return to the mixed results referred to at the start of this piece.”