​Celia Paul seeks a little comfort while enjoying the wilds of western Canada – and she decides she’s definitely on the right track with the luxury Rocky Mountaineer . . .

The design of the Rocky Mountaineer luxury train allows a passenger to easily take photographs above a high canyon

If you’d love to see the wild and rugged landscapes of western Canada, but prefer to do so with a glass of wine in hand rather than a pair of hiking boots and a map, then luxury train travel might be the best option.

More than a century ago, engineers carved out a route through British Columbia and Alberta, from the laid-back waterside city of Vancouver, eastwards through the majestic Rocky Mountains. Today’s travellers have the chance to make the journey in somewhat less arduous fashion.

I was bound for Banff, in the heart of the Rockies, aboard the Rocky Mountaineer, in the comfort of a double-decker glass-domed carriage, complete with on-board chef, private library and a traditionally-fitted lounge car.

But before boarding my train, I had time to explore Vancouver, home of the 2010 Winter Olympics. I set out in bright sunshine to explore the sights of Canada’s third largest city and within hours of stepping out of my hotel, had decided I could easily relocate there.

The relaxed, friendly city offers waterside views, huge expanses of green space and easy access to biking and walking trails. But it was after experiencing some of its restaurants that I really began mentally bidding farewell to British life.

From the ripe peaches, plums and apples on offer at Granville Island’s food markets, to organic vegetables grown just outside the city and fresh fish and seafood, nothing had prepared me for just how seriously British Columbians regard food.

I took advantage of the state’s brief berry season to try salmon paired with balsamic strawberries, I sampled halibut caught hours earlier and got my first taste of some delicious local wines.

The Rocky Mountaineer passes through Ottertail Creek, Yoho National Park, British Columbia

By the time the Rocky Mountaineer pulled away from its purpose-built station in north Vancouver and headed out into the industrial suburbs, I thought I must have already tasted the best food on offer in western Canada.

I was wrong. In the old-fashioned dining car section of our two-floor carriage, white tablecloths and silver cutlery evoked the golden era of the railways, when three-course meals were a normal part of luxury travel.

From the tiny kitchen at the end of our carriage came immaculately presented, beautiful dishes, a far cry from the pre-packed sandwiches and lukewarm tea we Brits usually associate with train journeys.

But then the Rocky Mountaineer differs from normal railways in many ways. The on-board commentary of our attendant Chad, the attentive service of the waiting staff and above all the incredible views we passed all marked it out as the journey of a lifetime.

After leaving the outskirts of Vancouver behind, the train wound eastwards past the Cascade Mountains and on through the Fraser Valley, offering abrupt changes of scenery, from placid lakes to arid canyons, before stopping for the night at Kamloops, where the two branches of the Thompson River converge.

We passed rock climbers, kayakers and white-water rafters keen on getting some of Canada’s best adrenaline highs, but as I curled up on the cosy sofa at the back of our carriage, keeping an eye out for bears outside, I didn’t feel any pangs of jealousy.

The next day, the landscape changed dramatically again as the train headed up into the Rockies, past azure rivers edged by pine forests, with waterfalls tumbling past the tracks and into the famous Spiral Tunnels.

Chance to relax

A spectacular feat of engineering designed to ease the train’s path up the steep slopes, the tunnels were a dizzying experience. The train emerged from its complex path through the mountains after each tunnel, facing a different direction down into the tree-clad valleys every time.

The changeable weather of the Rockies took a turn for the worse as we headed up into the mountains, but as the clouds parted to show glimpses of fast-flowing rivers and craggy summits, I still managed to snap some great pictures before the train chugged sedately into Banff.

The next morning I had another opportunity to make the most of the views as a gondola took me almost 700 metres up to the top of Sulphur Mountain, at the southern edge of the town.

A walkway at the top of the mountain, populated by as many chipmunks as tourists, provided incredible views of the compact mountain community.

My hotel, the Banff Springs, appeared in miniature at the foot of the mountain, with the town spread out behind it like a toy village, Banff National Park stretching away in either direction.

For those keen to stretch their legs after two days of train travel, the park – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – offers plenty of opportunity, with 1,500km of trails ready to be explored.

Canada’s first national park, spanning 6,641 square kilometres (2,564 square miles) offers nature enthusiasts the chance to explore mountains, valleys, glaciers, lakes and forests.

But after a massage, a dip in the warm thermal pools of the hotel spa and a long bask in the eucalyptus-scented steam room, I opted to end my day in a more opulent manner, soaking in an outdoor hot tub as the sun disappeared behind the mountains.

Hiking, cycling and adrenaline sports are a brilliant way to see the unforgettable Rockies – but a little taste of luxury can mean the difference between going home worn out and returning to everyday life with a spring in your step.

Even after a nine-hour flight from Calgary back to London, I felt soothed, refreshed – and ready to go back to Canada at the next opportunity.