​Paula Fentiman visits what’s been described as the “ultimate relaxation resort” of Madinat Makadi in Egypt, but also found time to visit some of the country’s historic treasures, including the tomb of Tutankhamun . . .

The luxurious Madinat Makadi Resort and Golf Course, planned as the ultimate relaxation resort

From the clubhouse of the new championship-standard Madinat Makadi golf course, I looked across a stunning landscape of green fairways and lakes linked by connecting waterfalls to the exotic beaches of the Red Sea beyond.

Built on barren stretches of the desert outside Hurghada just 11 years ago, the Egyptians planned the ultimate relaxation resort of Madinat Makadi with such precision that some visitors never go outside its boundaries for the length of their stay.

Spice Girl Mel B is one of many to fall in love with the place – choosing the location for a lavish party to celebrate the renewal of her wedding vows last year.

Possibly she liked the luxurious hotel suites the size of a flat, complete with a pool on the balcony, or perhaps the magnificent landscaped gardens which surround each hotel and provide the perfect backdrop for a portfolio of celebrity pictures.

There are luxury spas, brilliant kids’ clubs, fascinating souks and vibrant nightlife, but one of its greatest attractions is a purely natural one – the almost hypnotic power of breezes coming in across the Red Sea even on the hottest days of summer.

While you will often swelter in airless Cairo or Luxor, you are usually gently fanned in these parts. And you will settle happily for an outside table in one of the many restaurants that offer tasty samples of traditional mezze and a fantastic choice of lamb dishes.

On pristine beaches, neat lines of sun-loungers make this quiet, man-made resort the ideal place to curl up with a good book. Sporty types who tire of the fairways can switch their attention to snorkelling and diving among the coral. Last November, the impressive five-star Jaz Makadi Golf Hotel was added to this scene of near perfection, nestled in the heart of the course with pool, restaurant, bar and spa.

For all its luxury, the Red Sea coast is essentially a 21st-century creation, and most visitors balance it with glimpses of the ancient world depicted in history lessons.

Many visitors prefer ancient history for starters, and the Red Sea afterwards. Flying into Hurghada, we went in the opposite direction.

Madinat Makadi beach

A three-hour coach drive took us across the desert and then between steepling mountain ranges on either side.

At times, our route along the dusty road traced the line of the River Nile, where camels wandered by the ramshackle homes and women washed clothes in the waters in scenes that would not have looked out of place in Biblical times.

Among the tombs and temples of Luxor, I wanted to see why people have been fascinated by the likes of Cleopatra and Tutankhamun for more than 3,000 years.

Built on the site of the ancient city of Thebes, the city contains enough treasures at the vast Karnak and Luxor temple complexes to quench a cultural thirst.

Lines of sphinxes took us into an array of statues and alabaster monuments to the gods and goddesses of the day, demonstrating how one Pharaoh after another tried to outdo previous shows of wealth and respect to the mythical figures that they believed controlled life and death.

Thousands of years after being created, the works of art remain impressively intact, helped by the Egyptian climate.

As the locals mention at every opportunity, the sun shines all the time and rain falls only about one day a year. We found temperatures of 21-24C cool by local standards, just about right for exploring the sights and sounds of the city.

As well as enjoying the love stories of rulers such as Ramses II and Queen Nefertari, my curiosity for the macabre meant I was also naturally keen to explore the Egyptians’ fascination with death.

They buried their Pharaohs in huge hidden tunnels, caves and tombs in the Valleys of the Kings and Queens on the west bank of the Nile.

It’s a treasure-trove of mummies – including the most famous of all, Tutankhamun – and is a constantly evolving site as the hunt for missing graves continues.

Looking down from the Iberotel Luxor Hotel to the River Nile

Queuing to enter the tombs, I watched archaeologists in long gowns and head scarves carry buckets of rubble from excavation pits and load them into trucks in a hot and laborious process.

The crowds of sun-hat and shorts-wearing tourists seemed slightly incongruous amid the sense that secrets from centuries past were being unlocked right before our eyes.

The stand-out moment for me was seeing the face of Tutankhamun lying in the place he was buried more than 3,000 years ago.

Although the tourist information on offer prepares visitors for disappointment, reminding them his famous blue and gold burial mask and other treasures uncovered by British archaeologist Howard Carter in 1922 are now on display in Cairo, the Boy King’s mummy was definitely worth paying the extra charge to take a look.

Intended to be safe from thieves intent on taking the precious treasures the kings took with them to their deaths, grave-robbers nevertheless plundered them over the years.

But Tutankhamun’s coffin was kept secret from the rest of the world until Carter’s discovery brought Egyptian history into the limelight.

While not the largest or most impressive burial chamber on offer, it was worth every penny to walk through the unassuming entrance and down the flight of stairs to see – in a glass case – the mummified body of a king in power in the 1300s BC, who died before reaching the age of 20.

All this culture is set on the banks of the majestic Nile, where queues of cruise liners dominate the Luxor stretch of river.

Our base, the Iberotel Luxor, was perfectly positioned to enjoy the spectacle. We could walk straight out of the grounds and on to a felucca (a traditional wooden sail boat) for a trip along the river.

Nestled between the ancient walls, there are bustling streets with stalls selling souvenirs, including the ancient Egyptian symbol of luck – a beetle called a scarab.

Signs saying shops in the souk were “hassle-free” were slightly misleading, as traders made every effort to persuade me to choose one of their scarves. Eventually, they won me over.

A very persistent schoolboy also proffered a selection of spices – including generous packages of three different kinds of saffron – which I took off his hands for the equivalent of £1. With Egypt well outside the Euro zone, you can find many such bargains in markets and shops, while restaurants are usually great value.